Five years ago, I went to Mt Pinatubo together with a group of ultra runners where five of us were training for the 1st BDM 102. While the 5 of us were having our “pit stop” at the edge of crater lake, I started to discuss with the group about my plans in promoting ultra marathon events in the country. And the rest is history. The ultra runner’s group whom we asked to join in our trek to Mt Pinatubo just completely “vanished”. I wonder why.
Every edition of the Mt Pinatubo 50K Trail Challenge has a unique story and experiences to every runner as the landscape of the route would completely change every year. In short, there is a different story for every runner every year. And the challenges brought about by the landscape, the river, the lahar, the rocks, the elevation, the heat and the rains make this event totally different from the other trail running events in the country. This is a trail running event where you need agility, quick thinking, smart running strategy and orienteering skills in order to run safely back to the finish line.
If you look closely on the elevation profile of the race route, this could be the first ultra “FKT” (Fastest Known Time) event held in the country. The fastest recorded time was 5:35:09 hours by Marcelo Bautista while the Lady’s Course Record is 8:00:59 by Majo Liao. These course records stand up to the present.
Mt Pinatubo Elevation Profile
For this year, the event was held after a day when Typhoon Santi’s strong winds had devastated the towns of Tarlac, Pampanga, Bataan and Zambales. The roads to the starting area, Barangay Santa Juliana in Capas, Tarlac had been filled with fallen trees and debris but with the immediate response from the Local Government Disaster Committee, the roads were cleared for traffic.
Much to my desire to personally recon the route on the day before Race Day, I was advised by the local authorities that It would be best to wait for the river’s depth to subside and start the race when there would be natural lighting as the sun arises.
I was expecting only 52 runners to join this race. I guess, 3 of the runners who requested to be included in the list of registered runners decided not to join the race as a result of the typhoon. I decided to run the race as the “sweeper” and safety marshal for the last runners.
Most of the runners arrived at the assembly area few hours before the start of the race and they were surprised to see the devastation brought about by Typhoon Santi. I made clear to all the runners that the race start would be delayed for us to wait for the day’s sunlight to appear. At exactly 5:35 AM, the race started in front of the Barangay Hall of Santa Juliana, Capas, Tarlac with 49 runner-starters. My salute goes to these runners who braved to be at the starting area.
Runners who had their first time to join the race are always surprised with the first river crossing which is about 1.3 kilometers from the starting area. It is always the same feeling and apprehension for all the runners. The river had been wider and some portions are deep and the current is strong. Runners would cross the river deliberately in groups trying to test the depth and current of the flowing river. At a distance, every runner would see the road that leads to the cogon/tall grasses and that was the target of all the runners.
Due to the loose and unstable ground brought about by the typhoon, the first 4 X 4 vehicle to serve the runners as the Aid Station had been stalled at Km 8. The 2nd 4 X 4 vehicle move on to about a few kilometers.
I started to run the race after 5 minutes from the Gun Start time. I purposely made myself as the “sweeper” and safety runner for the runners at the rear. After one hour of hiking and running, I was able to spot the stalled 4X4 vehicle and the last runners leaving the Aid Station. I immediately called my staff at the Starting Area to send another 4X4 vehicle to reach Kilometer 17, if possible.
I have to wait for about 45 minutes for the replacement 4X4 vehicle to arrive at the stalled vehicle. Once it arrived, I continued my run with the instruction for the replacement vehicle to move forward closer to Km 17 if the condition of the ground and the river permit. The replacement vehicle passed me somewhere in Km 10 and I could still see the last runners in front of me with a distance of about 500 meters. However, the driver of the replacement 4X4 vehicle had to stop the vehicle about 1-2 kilometers ahead of me due to loose ground and deeper parts of the river.
The race marshals and volunteer that I requested to be positioned at the Crater Lake had to walk for about 6 kilometers but decided not push through to the peak of Mt Pinatubo due to the lack of time. With this situation, the runners who will be reaching the turn-around at the Crater Lake will not be able to see my Race Marshals.
I was amazed and surprised to see the landscape to have completely changed after a year! Gone are the temporary trail where the 4X4 vehicle would run through. Another landscape of rocks and lahar had appeared. The temporary waiting area for the 4X4 vehicle at a place called “GMA” is completely gone. Most of the runners at the rear were lost at this portion but with the presence of the Race Marshals and Volunteer, they were advised to go to their position and were able to get their proper direction.
When I reached the “GMA” area, I was able to catch up with the last runner. The distance to the peak is still 7-8 kilometers from this point. From here, I pushed the last runner to continue the race and be able to reach the turn-around point. The first runner going back to the finish just dropped by at the “GMA” as we started our trek to the peak. After about 500 meters, we met the 2nd runner, Robert Watson and the third runner, July Oconer was 200-300 meters behind. After 15 minutes of hiking, we met the 4th runner, Graciano Santos. As we reached the Waiting Sheds at the foot of Mt Pinatubo, we were able to meet a group of 5 runners coming from the peak. More runners would be going down from the peak as we were trying to trek the last 2 kilometers to the peak of the mountain.
As we reached the peak of Mt Pinatubo, we were able to catch up with the last 4 runners who just came from the Crater Lake. After a brief “pit stop” at the Crater Lake, we were ready to move on for the last half of the course.
Coming from the peak and going back to the finish line could had been very easy if not for the numerous rocks to step on, more time spent on looking for open ground to land your feet, and the river to cross. After a few kilometers, the last runner, Joel and I were able to catch up with the 4 last runners.
It was already noon time and the sun was already on top of us as the sky went clear from clouds. It became hotter and we tried to conserve the water we had in our hydration bottles and tried our best to reach the Aid Station at Km #11/49. Three of the runners of the last 4 runners went ahead of us and the 4th runner, Allenstein joined us as the last 3 runners.
After hiking, jogging and telling some “running” stories with my companions, we were able to reach the Aid Station. This is where we ate boiled eggs and bananas; refilled our hydration bottles; and drank lots of soda drinks sponsored/provided by our ultra runner and friend, Jun Padilla.
I was surprised to see that the river had subsided and became narrow. More lahar grounds were exposed as a result of few hours of sunshine but some were not stable as our feet would sink for a few inches when walking. At one point, I would remove my shoes and clean them from the accumulated lahar/sand with the flowing river. The flowing river carries a lot of sand/lahar and they ultimately gets inside the shoes and accumulate on the toe box/sole portion of the shoes.
After a few kilometers, we reached the last Aid Station and we were able to catch up with the rest of the runners as some would eat, refill their bottles and wash their shoes from the lahar/sand. It was the last 8 kilometers to the finish line but some runners have the tendency to be lost on this part of the route.
I was with another runner-friend, Many Ocampo, from this point as I tried to encourage him to run with a faster pace and by taking the shortest route/trail to the last river crossing. After some “hit and miss” and “bushwacking” on tall grasses, we were able to reach the 2nd to the last river crossing that would lead us to the trail to the last river crossing.
At this point, I became the “guide” for the rest of the runners at the rear on the last 3 kilometers of the course. I felt strong and faster with my pace from this point. It is just a matter of time and I know I would be able to finish the race in less than 12 hours!
The following were the observations made and some adjustments to be implemented on the next edition of this race:
Despite the more challenging situation of this year’s edition, all the starters were able to finish the race. I could see that our runners are becoming braver, stronger and smarter.
Runners attempting to join this race must have some knowledge on orienteering. Some skills on tracking would also be needed. A runner is smart if he/she tries to look for marks/foot prints or signs of runner’s track along the rocks and trails.
Most of the runners are “repeaters” in this event and I am glad they were able to act as guide/pacers to other runners. This is the essence of trail running—everybody helps each other to overcome the challenges along the route and be able to finish the race safely.
Integrity of the race was maintained and the runners went down to the crater lake despite the presence of eroded portion of the stairs. Next time, I would advise that handheld digital camera will be required for each runner and for them to submit a “selfie” picture of themselves with the Crater Lake as the background as an evidence that they reached the turn-around point. This is an “out of the box” way just in case the Race Marshals would not be able to reach the Crater Lake.
Since I included a First Aid Kit as a required equipment carry-on for each runner, this will be thoroughly inspected before the race. I am glad there were no serious accidents during the race.
Runners must be always vigilant and observant with the course features that they would pass on their way to the peak. These land and river features would be needed for the runner to guide him/her back to the finish line. There are steel towers along the left side of the open space/river as the runner would run towards the peak. The same towers would be seen on the right side of the runners as they go back to the finish line.
Last year, we had time to prepare for ribbons tied on bamboo sticks but on race day, most of the sticks were taken by Aeta kids and made as souvenirs. What is worse was that most of the runners were not able to see these ribbons that we placed along the route on the first 5 kilometers as most of the runners followed the trails. For this year, we were not able to place those ribbons but runners were smart to follow the river and made their run with due direction towards the South.
The Aetas/local tribe in the area were very helpful that they made some access trails on the steep banks of the river for the runners. They even see to it that they give instructions on where to go to avoid the deeper parts of the river. Nobody from the tribe asked for any food or money from the runners.
If not for the typhoon, we could have pushed the 4X4 vehicles to reach “GMA” where runners would be able to replenish their hydration before their final trek to the peak of the mountain. I know that some runners were asking for some water after coming from the peak but they persevered until they reach the stalled 4X4 vehicle on the last 12 kilometers. On the next edition, we will see to it that every runner must be able to carry at least 2 liters of water on the last Aid Station before their trek to the peak or before reaching the turn-around point.
All Finishers were able to receive new versions of the Finisher’s T-Shirt and Finisher’s Medal.
On the next edition of this race, we have to add some amount for the registration fee in order for us to offer Cash Prizes to the podium finishers. We will adopt what we will do with the next edition of the Tagaytay To Nasugbu 50K Ultra Marathon Race.
We will continue to announce the details of the next year’s edition through our Facebook Event Page.
Every year, we have Foreigners in this race and we hope to continue accommodating them in our next editions.
My special thanks to the Northern Luzon Command (NOLCOM), AFP, Philippine Air Force, Tarlac and Capas PNP, Light Armor Division (LAD) of the Philippine Army, Barangay Sta Juliana Personnel, Jun Padilla for the Pepsi Products & Drinks, Ronnel Go for the Photo Coverage, Volunteers, and Staff of Bald Runner’s Events for their untiring efforts to make this event safe for the runners and for the success of this event.
Note: The pictures above were taken last July 31, 2010 during the Birthday Run of July Oconer to Mount Pinatubo.
Rules and Regulations: 2nd Mt Pinatubo 50K Trail Challenge
The race starts at 5:00 AM of September 4, 2011 (Sunday) at the vicinity of the Barangay Hall of Sta. Juliana, Capas, Tarlac.
This race is a solo run and the distance is 50 kilometers. The distance from the Starting Line to the Mt Pinatubo Crater Lake (turn-around) is 25 kilometers. From the turn-around point, the runner has to go back to the Starting Line which will serve also as the Finish Line. Pacers are not allowed.
The cut-off time for the race is twelve (12) hours. Runners must be able to reach the turn-around point in 5:30 hours. Runners who will reach the turn-around point in more than 5:30 hours will be advised to ride on the available 4X4 vehicle in going back to the Starting Line. Such runners will be declared as DNF.
Each runner must be able to have their respective hydration system/belt. The runner’s hydration system must be able to carry liquid/water needed to cover a distance of at least 15 kilometers. There will be Aid Station at Km#8-9 & Km#16-17 and these same Aid Stations will serve as Stations at Km# 33-34 and Km # 42-43 (on the way back). These Aid Stations will be 4X4 vehicles manned by Race Marshals. Be sure to carry some food for you to eat at the Crater/turn-around point (Km #25). The park at the Crater has faucets where you can fill water for your hydration system.
The Aid Stations will have water, cola drinks and limited food supply. The foods served will be chocolate bites, salted biscuits, boiled eggs, and boiled bananas.
Runners are encouraged to prepare their own “drop bags” which will be carried/transported by the 4X4 Vehicle-Aid Stations. Drop Bags should be properly marked with the runner’s name, race number, and Aid Station Number/Km Point where it will be available.
Runner has the option to provide his/her own support vehicle from the 4X4 vehicles for rent available through the Barangay Officials at the Barangay Hall of Sta Juliana. The rent/cost of one vehicle is P 2,500.00 (last year’s price). The fee for a guide is P 500.00 (optional for the runner to get one). However, such individual support vehicle should not “shadow” the runner. It is advisable that support vehicles must “leap-frog” from the runner.
The exact turn-around point is at the edge of the Crater Lake. Runners should go down the stairs as each runner must be able to register to the marshal-recorder upon his/her arrival thereat. Runners shall be properly “marked” at the turn-around point by the Race Marshal thereat.
Runners are advised not to ride on their respective support vehicle even for a short distance or while crossing the river. Riding on the vehicle is tantamount to “cheating” during the race.
Since most of the route towards the Mt Pinatubo has no established or designated trail or path due to changing landscape as a result water & earth movements, the runner can improvise or have his/her own personal choice in establishing his/her direction towards the crater. The rule of thumb for the direction towards the crater is ALWAYS STAY ON THE LEFT PART OF THE EXPOSED AREA going southerly direction.
It is advisable to run with somebody or with a group with the same pace. If not, each runner must be able to have a sight on the runner in front and runner at his back.
This is a trail run which is considered as a RACE. However, it is advisable to help each other on matters of emergency and occurrence of accidents along the route. Any casualty or runner who needs medical attention should be brought to the nearest Aid Station.
Each runner must carry with them basic First Aid Kit. This is a MUST and it is a ground for Disqualification if a runner is without this basic requirement. The First Aid Kit should consist enough cotton, sanitary gauze, medical adhesive tape, betadyne/iodine, and anti-biotic ointment.
Runners must be extra careful in stepping those big rocks along the route. Most of the rocks are slippery and some are not stable. It is safer to walk rather than run on these rocks. Always think safety when you encounter rocks along the way.
There will be a lot of river crossing. Find time to be deliberate in crossing such flowing rivers, most especially where there are a lot of rocks. There are some places where the current of the river are strong, take time in establishing a firm and balance footing as you cross such rivers.
Basically, you will have damp/wet running shoes throughout the run. It is advisable for each runner to apply petroleum jelly to their feet before the run to prevent blisters.
Walking sticks or Trekking Poles are allowed on this run.
At the Crater Lake, if you are not a swimmer, please do not attempt to swim at the lake. We don’t have any Lifeguards for this race.
If in case there will be typhoon or continuous raining on race day, the event will be cancelled and it will be postponed to a later date when weather is favorable for the safety of the participants. Please check on the recent race updates on the Event Page on my Wall at Facebook.
Top 3 Overall and Ladies will receive trophies. Every Finisher will receive Individual PAU’s Finisher’s Medal; Finisher’s T-Shirt; and a Certificate of Achievement (to be given later). This trail run is included in the Ranking of PAU Runners for the Year.
Parking Areas will be available on one side of the Road at Barangay Sta Juliana and at the area near the banks of the river (500 meters from the Barangay Hall). Barangay Tanods will serve as the security/”look-out” to your parked vehicles. Be prepared to pay P 50.00 as Parking Fee for each vehicle to the Barangay Tanods.
The RD and Race Marshals will be conducting random checks on each runner’s hydration system and the mandatory First Aid Kit along the route. It is mandatory for each runner to show their First Aid Kit as he/she checks-in at the Starting Area.
Lastly, please maintain the Integrity of this Race.
For those who paid/deposited their registration fee at LANDBANK, please bring your deposit slip/receipt at the Starting Line for verification.
No bandits to be allowed on this event. Insisting to be a Bandit? Go ahead, make our day!!!
Good luck and Have FUN!!!!
Mt Pinatubo 50K Trail Challenge Elevation Profile (Courtesy of Mark Hernandez)
The following is the Official Result of the 1st Mt Pinatubo Challenge (MPC) 50K Trail Run.
I would like to specifically mention that the Northern Luzon Command (NOLCOM) of the Armed Forces of the Philippines gave me the “GO” signal to push through with the trail run as the Balikatan Exercise (Proper) is scheduled to start yet on October 14, 2010 with the AFP components and the US Armed Forces Counterpart. I did not want that the race would be cancelled, re-scheduled, or terminated when most of the runners are still on the trail. I have the impression that the Philippine Air Force scheduled a practice run on the events/activities that they will be performing during the said military exercise with our US counterparts on the prescribed scheduled dates.
However, the top runners who were fast and strong were not affected with the practice runs of our Philippine Air Force and I have decided that their Finish Times will be upheld as the prevailing record for a solo run finish time from Sta. Juliana, Capas, Tarlac up to the Crater Lake of Mt Pinatubo and back. As I could not determine the exact elapsed time for each runner who were directed to stop in one of the Aid Stations due to the helicopter-airborne firing from a MG helicopter, the finish times reflected below will be considered as the official time. Guys, you will have your chance to redeem yourselves and improve your finish times on the next edition of this trail race!
Due to this predicament, I decided to remove the prescribed cut-off time of 10 hours and allowed everybody to finish and awarded each one who crossed the finish line with their “finisher’s trophy” and Finisher’s T-shirt.
My congratulations to all who started and finished the race. You have finished what I consider as the “hardest and most challenging 50K trail race” in the country.
The race starts at 5:00 AM of October 9, 2010 (Saturday) at the vicinity of the Barangay Hall of Sta. Juliana, Capas, Tarlac.
This race is a solo run and the distance is 50 kilometers. The distance from the Starting Line to the Mt Pinatubo Crater Lake (turn-around) is 25 kilometers. From the turn-around point, the runner has to go back to the Starting Line which will serve also as the Finish Line. Pacers are not allowed.
The cut-off time for the race is ten (10) hours. Runners must be able to reach the turn-around point in 4:30 hours. Runners who will reach the turn-around point in more than 4:30 hours will be advised to ride on the available 4X4 vehicle in going back to the Starting Line. Such runners will be declared as DNF. However, they will receive a special certificate for finishing 25 kilometers.
Each runner must be able to have their respective hydration system/belt. The runner’s hydration system must be able to carry liquid/water needed to cover a distance of at least 7-8 kilometers. There will be Aid Station at Km#7; Km#14; and Km#21 and these same Aid Stations will serve at Km# 29; Km#36; and Km#43 (on the way back). These Aid Stations will be 4X4 vehicles manned by Race Marshals.
The Aid Stations will have water, sports drinks, cola drinks and limited food supply. The foods served will be chocolate bites, salted biscuits, boiled eggs, boiled banana & sweet potatoes.
Runners are encouraged to prepare their own “drop bags” which will be carried/transported by the 4X4 Vehicle-Aid Stations. Drop Bags should be properly marked with the runner’s name, race number, and Aid Station Number/Km Point where it will be available.
Runner has the option to provide his/her own support vehicle from the 4X4 vehicles for rent available through the Barangay Officials at the Barangay Hall of Sta Juliana. The rent/cost of one vehicle is P 2,500.00. The fee for a guide is P 500.00 (optional). However, such individual support vehicle should not “shadow” the runner. It is advisable that support vehicles must “leap-frog” from the runner.
The exact turn-around point is at the edge of the Crater Lake. Each runner must be able to register to the marshal-recorder upon his/her arrival.
Runners are advised not to ride on their respective support vehicle even for a short distance or while crossing the river. Riding on the vehicle is tantamount to “cheating” during the race.
Since most of the route towards the Mt Pinatubo has no established or designated trail or path due to changing landscape as a result water & earth movements, the runner can improvise or have his/her own personal choice in establishing his/her direction towards the crater.
It is advisable to run with somebody or with a group with the same pace. If not, each runner must be able to have a sight on the runner in front and runner at his back.
This is a trail run which is considered as a RACE. However, it is advisable to help each other on matters of emergency and occurrence of accidents along the route. Any casualty or runner who needs medical attention should be brought to the nearest Aid Station.
Each runner must carry with them basic First Aid Kit. This is a MUST and it is a ground for Disqualification if a runner is without this basic requirement. The First Aid Kit should consist enough cotton, sanitary gauze, medical adhesive tape, betadyne/iodine, and anti-biotic ointment.
Runners must be extra careful in stepping those big rocks along the route. Most of the rocks are slippery and some are not stable. It is safer to walk rather than run on these rocks. Always think safety when you encounter rocks along the way.
There will be a lot of river crossing. Find time to be deliberate in crossing such flowing rivers, most especially where there are a lot of rocks. There are some places where the current of the river are strong, take time in establishing a firm and balance footing as you cross such rivers.
Basically, you will have damp/wet running shoes throughout the run. It is advisable for each runner to apply petroleum jelly to their feet before the run to prevent blisters.
Walking sticks are allowed on this run.
At the Crater Lake, if you are not a swimmer, please do not attempt to swim at the lake. We don’t have any Lifeguards for this race.
If in case there will be typhoon or continuous raining on race day, the event will be cancelled and it will be postponed to a later date when weather is favorable for the safety of the participants.
Top 3 Men and Ladies will receive trophies. Every Finisher will receive Individual Trophy/Memento; Finisher’s T-Shirt; and a Certificate of Achievement. This trail run is included in the Ranking of PAU Runners for the year.
Parking Areas will be available on one side of the Road at Barangay Sta Juliana and at the area near the banks of the river (500 meters from the Barangay Hall). Barangay Tanods will serve as the security/”look-out” to your parked vehicles. Be prepared to pay P 50.00 as Parking Fee for each vehicle to the Barangay Tanods.
The RD and Race Marshals will be conducting random checks on each runner’s hydration system and the mandatory First Aid Kit along the route. It is mandatory for each runner to show their First Aid Kit as he/she checks-in at the Starting Area.
Lastly, please maintain the Integrity of this Race. (Do I have to tell and remind you about this every time we have a PAU race?)
This is a personal story of Gerald Moore, a friend of July Oconer, on his 3-day stay in the Philippines.
I have some photos and a story now- hope you enjoy!
I checked out of one of the nicest hotels I’ve ever stayed in the Shangri-la – after a buffet breakfast so wide in scope it could easily have covered lunch, dinner, barbecue, gourmet, France, Italy, Hong Kong, Mexico and of course, Manila!
July and I got our last minute supplies in a big supermarket next door, cases of water and boxes of granola bars. I bought a couple ‘Coach’ designer shirts – for about $10 each! Every salesperson called out to me SIR, SIR (sounds like ‘sah’) Almost everyone speaks English well.
Manila is sprawling and impromptu. The central city is clean and pretty Security is everywhere, rifles, dogs and Xray machines. The people don’t seem to care and they don’t know of any threat – that’s just the way it is.
Decorated and sparkling WWII “Jeepneys” and motorcycle sidecar taxis are everywhere. And they have Shakey’s Pizza – haven’t seen that since I was 11 years old. I rode through Bataan Death March country in the back seat of July’s well-customized turquoise Honda Civic northward out of the city of 10 Million bound for Mount Pinatubo.
In 1991, Mt Pinatubo exploded in a climactic strato-eruption that lasted 12 days hours, during that time it ejected enough ash, smoke and sulphur to decrease the entire earth’s atmosphere by 1/2 a degree Fahrenheit. On the same day, Typhoon Yunya struck the island, passing about 75 km north of the volcano. The most violent phase of the eruption, lasted about three hours. Typhoon rains mixed with the ash deposits and caused massive lahars. For 3 years ash circled the globe. If not for close geological monitoring and widespread warning, tens of thousands would have perished. This eruption forced the closure of Clark Air Force Base which had operated continuously as a beneficial, respected and locally valued United States military station since World War II.
On the straight, flat roads around July’s hometown people walk perilously close to speeding traffic late at night, motorcycle sidecar taxis are the primary transportation. Signs say ‘vulcanizing’ (tire re-treading) and ‘Junk Shop open 24 hours’. Beyond the row of buildings and houses that line the road endlessly are soaking wet rice fields.
July found me a comfortable country inn while He and his Fiancé went further into the country to visit and stay with his parents.
We left for Mt Pinatubo at 130am and met people at a couple places along the way traveling through the dark straight roads with flashers on as a convoy of ultramarathoners.
As we neared the starting point we passed the concentration camp where 11000 US and Philippine soldiers were killed at the hands of the Japanese, and at every kilometer along the way, a stone marker memorializing those killed on the march. To this day they find gravesites amongst the rice fields. All these ultramarathoners devote their effort and struggle to the soldiers killed here in many ways. That I knew of the march, had met survivors and ran the Death March at White Sands Missile Range made me an instant family member: Sir Gerald.
The starting point was a small village schoolyard’s covered bandstand with bare light bulbs hanging. Our little convoy filled the yard and runners were getting their gear together on the stage there. The 3 Toyota Landcruisers arrived driven by the Pinatubo Guides and parked facing out. Supplies were being stacked inside – bags and ice chests. I added my case of water to the community chest.
Then the Great Baldheaded Runner arrived in shiny Prius to a round of applause. This is Retired General Jovie Narcise of the Philippine Army whose base includes the area we’d be running in. He’s has nice gear, and is very fit and totally bald. Jonel, the race director, participant and magazine publisher (also bald) gave some cut-off times and last minute advice and then said a very short prayer. Everyone crossed themselves before and after, twice.
We take off walking as the dawn begins to break and the little group of 35 or so streams out of the school yard and up the main road. The road immediately goes into innumerable creek crossings and every single runners’ feet are totally wet throughout the entire 55K. The course is one continuous lahar – a valley that had been filled in by the eroded ash and cinder rock moved by water ejected from the cooling volcano. All the water is warm, a murky tan-grey and running fast in wide shallow sheets. Some of the rocks are so light they actually float with the current.
Most of the surfaces were very similar to running in Calabacillas or Los Montoyas arroyo, except the whole thing is wet and well compacted. We pass poor farmers bringing banana blossoms to market on their ox-drawn carts. For all their squalor they sit their animals nobly and from them they spectate with interest. As we ascend into the lahar, we stop to regroup one last time with the guides to re-supply before going past 20K, because the Land Cruisers can no longer keep up with the runners. The area looks like a barren moonscape inlaid on an emerald forest. Aborigines from a local village gather on the edge of the lahar to wave and shout as we run below them.
The gap in green narrows and becomes deeper and more rocky but we keep a steady brisk pace. The grade becomes steeper and at about 25K, we arrive a several thatched huts, the water flow slows down to a trickle and the trail becomes a narrow cut through dense bush thick with green vines and covered completely in places by umbrella trees joining branches overhead.
Finally we reach a summit and the walls of the lahar open to the tremendous open maw of the crater, steep, jagged and green all around and a great lake fills the bowl with turquoise water – a mile across. Transfixed by the vista, July and I stand in awe – then we quickly descend to the edge of lake and start removing sweat-drenched shoes, shirts, water bags and swim in the warm copper-rich lake. Some of the other runners start showing up and doing the same. We rinse rocks out our shoes.
Rejuvenated and cleansed, we begin the descent, meeting our support crew at the summit. They had come the long way around in Jeeps for re-supply and photos. We split up again as the lahar again becomes mostly water and the runners pick up the pace on the descent. At 42K the sun comes out and we meet our support convoy again – everyone needs water, shade and fuel for the final 13K. We quit praying for sun and start praying for rain. A flood of mixed emotions wells up in me. I’m thoroughly fatigued, constantly measuring the remaining distance and yet elated and energized and wishing it would never end.
At the finish we’re treated to a cold, hand-pumped shower (after which I smell slightly like sulphur – an improvement!) and a regal buffet – in honor of July’s August 1, 40th Birthday. The Philipino Barbecue spread traverses the stage and is crowned by a bouquet of flowers, bananas and Roast Pork replete with the pig’s head, hearty beef skewers, school fish, spinach, lovely rice, halved tomatoes with salted eggs and shrimp paste. Also a special beef stew with rich broth and Oso Buco-style chunks of meat and marrow!
I’m honored to be seated between July and the General and by watching them I learn the technique for eating the stew. For dessert the General brings us each a tree-ripe banana which we peel and eat with a fork.
Getting late, it rains and people start saying goodbye. I grab my gear and again am treated to a seat of honor, riding shotgun in Jonel’s Montero with 4 squished into the back seat. I’m dropped off again in Manila at the foyer of another stunning beautiful and welcoming Hotel.
I’m still feeling good! In fact I’m still on a runner’s high!
Also wondering how to appropriately thank all the people at this special and challenging event.
Bald Runner 
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